Friday, July 17, 2009
This is a test. Please let me know if it works!
I'm trying something new today.
I'm hoping that this link will lead you to a Google Document.
If this works, I'll have a much easier time sharing tutorials with you. Please let me know if you can open the document, or if you have any trouble.
Thanks!
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
A hint for threading your needle...
Before threading your needle,
use your finger to wet the back of the needle's eye.
This moisture should wick your thread
right on through the eye.
**Note: I'd love to give credit to the person who first wrote this tip, but I don't remember where I found it!**
Saturday, June 27, 2009
My 3 Rules About Sewing Machine Needles
Ever find your tension is off or that your machine is skipping stitches? It's time to check out that sewing machine needle! Here are 3 rules to remember:
Rule 1: Change your Sewing Machine Needle frequently!
Needles will dull. Period. I recommend buying them by the handful when your local stores run notions on a 50% off sale. By stocking up, you'll be ready to use a new needle with every new project.
Also, check your needle frequently for burrs and blunt tips. These will cause snags in your fabric.
Rule 2: Pick the right needle for the right fabric.
Generally, you'll need a size 11 or 14. However, there are a few things to remember.
Rule 2.1: The thicker the fabric, the bigger the needle, bigger the needle size. Most manuals have a table listing the size needle that you need for certain fabrics. Here are some basics:
- Use a size 9 for Very Lightweight Fabrics, like Chiffon, Lace, Organdy, or Tulle.
- Use a size 11 or 12 for Lightweight Fabrics like Chambray, Gingham,Satin, Lawn, Single Knits, Jersey,Thin Leather, or Suede.
- Use a size 14 for Medium-weight Fabrics like most of your quilting cottons or Flannel, Velour, Broadcloth, Linen, Velvet, Double Knits, Vinyl, or some Leathers or Suede.
- Use a size 16 for Heavy-weight Fabrics including Denim, Sailcloth, Fake Fur, and thick Leathers.
- Use a size 18 for Very Heavy Fabrics like Canvas, Duck and some Upholstery fabrics.
Rule 2.2: Pick the right type of needle for the fabric. Basically:
- Woven fabric: Universal needles or Sharps
- Knits: Ball-point needles
- Leathers: Wedge-point needles (AKA leather needles)
- Most topstitching: Topstitching needles
Rule 3: Make sure your needle is inserted properly.
Any questions, refer to your sewing machine manual.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine Manual
My mom has a saying:
That's right, it's within arm's reach of my machine.
Did you find yours yet? Okay then,
"Get out your manual."
Every time I'd complain about my bobbin thread breaking or my machine making a strange noise or not being able to balance the tension, I'd hear
"Get out your manual."
So, in honor of my mom, for this post, I need you to:
"Get out your manual."
You can find it, right? Mine is here...
That's right, it's within arm's reach of my machine.
Did you find yours yet? Okay then,
"Get out your manual."
...and a stack of sticky notes. In my beginning sewing class, I have my students mark some pages for easy reference. Even now, these are the pages I turn to most often:
- How to insert my needle (You know, flat side to the side or back.)
- How to wind my bobbin
- How to thread my machine
- How to adjust the thread tension
- How to adjust the stitch length
- How to switch out the presser foot
- How to reverse a stitch
- How to use that silly button-holer
- How to maintain, clean, and possibly oil my machine
"Get out your manual."
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Remember to raise your needle to its highest position!
Are you having a problem with your needle coming unthreaded each time you get ready to stitch a new seam? Several of my girls in my latest sewing class were having that very problem. I watched them a time or two and found the cause.
When you finish stitching (and locking) a seam, turn your flywheel toward you to raise your needle to its highest point. THEN, you can pull your fabric out and clip your threads several inches away from your needle.
When you don't raise that needle, the tension is still on the thread. When you pull it away from the machine, you are stretching your thread. After you snip, the thread is bouncing back--right out of that needle.
Any questions? Leave me a comment or drop me an email!
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Tutorial: Vinyl Beach Bags
Vinyl makes a great beach bag. But, there are a few tricks you need to know before you start:
1. Once you poke a hole in vinyl, it says there. So, use pins only when necessary. Instead:
- Secure edges with paper clips.
- Use a strip of painter’s tape to secure a zipper.
- Secure edges with tape. (Remove promptly to avoid icky residue.)
3. Fold under ½ inch on the top edge. Tape into place.
5. Stitch along the zipper tape.
7. Unzip the zipper about 8 inches and fold the pieces right side together.
8. Stitch the edges with a 5/8 inch seam.
9. Open out the bottom corners.
10. Pinch the side seam and the bottom seam together.
11. Mark a line 2 inches from the point and 4 inches wide.
14. Trim the corner.
15. Repeat steps 9-14 for the other bottom corner.
16. Turn the bag right sides out.
17. Handles: Using the long, skinny rectangles, turn in each long edge into the middle.
18. Fold the new edges to the middle.
19. Stitch close to the each outside edge. This will be much easier if the tissue is between your presser foot and your vinyl.
20. Mark the bag in 4 places: 6 inches in and 1 inch down from each top corner.
21. Secure the straps to the outside of the bag at these marks.
Be patient when working with vinyl (it sticks to everything) and have fun!
Sunday, June 7, 2009
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4. Place the zipper coils along the fold and tape into place.
6. Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 for the other large rectangle of vinyl.
12. Stitch along this line.
13. Stitch again ¼ inch outside this seam.