Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Book Review: The Vogue and Butterick Step-byStep Guide to Sewing Techniques

The Vogue/Butterick Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Techniques by the editors of Vogue and Butterick Patterns Published in 1989 ISBN: 0-13-944125-5
Some Chapter Headings:
  • Applique
  • Bindings
  • Collars
  • Facings
  • Gussets
  • Linings
  • Overlock
  • Shoulder Pads
  • Yokes
I liked:
  • The quick, easy-to-use format. They certainly don't waste any words. The only text not in a tutorial is the opening page, where the book is explained.
  • Opening any one of the 47 sections to find well-illustrated instructions on sewing techniques.
  • The "Binding" section. It starts with a quick tutorial on making your own binding strips and then covers those icky situations like turning corners and neatly joining binding.
  • The information in the "Layout" section that covers cutting plaids and stripes. It includes gentle reminders like, "Avoid placing a heavy, dominant horizontal stripe at the bust line or waistline." (page 209) Sounds like really good advice to me!
  • The "Pocket" section. I wish I'd had that information the first time I tried to make a self-faced pocket. The illustrations are very clear.
  • That this book even includes a section on "Shoulder Pads". Should they ever come back into high fashion, I'll know just where to turn!

My dislikes:

  • The "Lining" section
  • No "invisible zipper" reference
  • The entire book is dedicated to garment sewing. Sure some techniques could cross-over into home decorating, but all the examples illustrated are garments.
Conclusion: At first glance, this was one I wanted to put back on the shelf. But, as our local branch of the library has such a limited selection, I figured I better at least have a second look. I'm so glad I did! This book is one to have on your shelf if you are moving toward an advanced beginner and intermediate sewing level. Not every sewer has mastered every technique, so having a quick, well-illustrated guide is quite handy. While I had the book for 2 weeks, I managed to use the sections on: Binding Buttonholes Collars Edge Finishes Gussets Hand Sewing Layouts Pressing Vents Would I buy it for myself? I have it "Saved for Later" on my favorite book-buying site. But, I'll probably pass. At least, as long as I can find it on the shelf at the library. Would I buy it for a beginner sewer? Maybe. This is definitely a great addition to the library of an advanced beginner.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Book Review: Sew U

Sew U: The Built by Wendy Guide to Making Your Own Wardrobe by Wendy Mullin with Eviana Hartman Published in 2006 ISBN: 0-8212-5740-4
Some Chapter Headings: Getting In Gear
Chop, Chop
Skirts
Shirts
Pants
I liked:
  • That the book is very easy to read.
  • The wonderful inspiration for "designing your own" based on a pattern.
  • The notions and supplies chapter because she points out that you don't have to have much to get started and encourages you to wait until you know what you need before investing.
  • The "Anatomy Lesson" defining and describing pattern pieces.
  • Page 82 that has an excellent explanation of thread tension and why it is so important.
  • The Project Ticket Form
My dislikes:
  • The section on measuring yourself is not detailed and only includes instructions for measuring bust, waist, and hip. In my experience, using only these 3 measurements leads to ill-fitting garments and loads of frustration.
  • I found the A-line skirt pattern to be almost a pencil skirt.
Conclusion:
While this book isn't as thorough as other "Complete Guides..." it certainly has its place. I personally picked up the book because the look of it appealed to me. And, the book is actually quite detailed for the beginner, describing and explaining techniques that more intermediate and advanced sewers would take for granted: stay-stitching, stitching direction, finishing seams, topstitching, understitching, and even sewing on a button!
Another feature that appealed to me: the book includes 3 patterns. While only the skirt has worked for me, the shirt and pants provide new options and can be a jump-start for a new sewer. That said, the limited measuring instructions and virtually no fitting information are potential roadblocks in sewing your own wardrobe.
Would I buy it for myself? I do own this book and I've made the skirt several times and in several ways.
Would I buy it for a beginner sewer? I whole-heartily recommend this book to a tween, teen, or even 30-something beginner--as long as they have a fitting resource (like a very, very good friend) handy.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Book Review: Vogue Easy Sewing

Vogue Easy Sewing by Lynn Ferrari and the Butterick Company, Inc.
Published 1985
ISBN: 0-06-181128-9
Some Chapter Headings:
  • Easy Wardrobe Planning
  • Fabric Dos and Don'ts
  • How to Press
  • How to Sew by Hand
I liked:
  • A great detailed "Needle and Thread Chart" on Page 31.
  • The chapter labeled "How to Press", which had good guidelines, but even better pictures and diagrams! This section included fool-proof instructions for pressing darts, gathers, pleats, sleeves, hems, and seams. Probably the best pressing instructions I've seen.
  • The chapter labeled "How to Sew By Hand", which included only a few stitches (back stitch tacks, slip stitch, blind stitch and thread chain), all essential to any sewer.
  • The last section "Easy Sewing Techniques" that is broken down into chapters based on the techniques that "scare" some sewers, including bands, buttonholes, darts, pockets, sleeves and zippers.
My dislikes:
  • There is no information on invisible zippers or collars with a stand.
Conclusion: This is a great reference for any sewer that has progressed past pillows and PJ pants and is now ready to tackle garments. The book is really easy to follow and has great illustrations for the techniques. I'll tell you again--I love the pressing chapter! One small warning--you'll have to look past the mid-1980s photos in the middle of the book. Gotta love shoulder pads! Would I buy it for myself? Absolutely. I've already looked it up on Amazon. Would I buy it for a beginner sewer? Maybe.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Book Review: New Complete Guide to Sewing

New Complete Guide to Sewing: Step-by-step techniques for making clothes and home accessories Published 2002 by Reader's Digest ISBN:0-7621-0420-1
Some Chapter Headings:
Sewing equipment and fabrics Neckline finishes and collars Fastenings Tailoring I liked:
  • The format! It is very easy to open this book to the contents and quickly identify the chapter I need.
  • The great fitting section. There were lots of photos showing how and where to measure for 16 useful measurements.
  • The great diagrams showing fit alternations on pattern tissue.
  • The diagrams showing common "wrinkles" and how to adjust fit for each.
  • 14 pages of hand stitches!

My dislikes:

  • Only one-The extensive list and descriptions of fabric has pictures, but they aren't complete or labeled.
Conclusion: I refer to this book at least once a month. It has more information than I could ever list. In fact, it would be easier to list what's not included than to tell you everything that is! So far, every time I've need information, I've found it here! I use the fitting chapters more than anything else! This book has 20 projects throughout that use the techniques covered in each chapter. It also has a quilting chapter, but you should note that it consists of only 2 projects and no additional diagrams or explanations. The book also contains a 4 page glossary. Would I buy it for myself? It's the most used book on my shelf! Would I buy it for a beginner sewer? Absolutely.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Book Reivew: Sewing for Your Home

Better Homes and Gardens Sewing for Your Home Published by Meredith Corp. Published in 1974 ASIN: B00161VWBI

Some Chapter Headings: Colors and Fabrics Window Fashions-A Decorating Asset How to Make Pillows and Cushions Room Dividers and Wall Hangings Children's Rooms are Special

I liked:

  • The nice explanation of special cutting circumstances like fabrics with a pile, one-directional designs, or plaids.
  • The sliding fabric panels on page 73. I love these! You'd have to see them, but basically the fabric panels attach to sliding tracks and essential create the impression of a fabric wall when closed.
  • The introduction to quilting.
  • The folding chairs that are made of 3 covered cushions that are hinged together. They can fold into cubes, chairs, lounges or mattresses.

My dislikes: Not really any. I suppose that's because the decor ideas are what I expected out of an early '70s book.

Conclusion:

All that's old is new again--well almost! If you are looking for a great home dec reference, this is it. This book includes great tables and diagrams for measuring and creating lots of basic, timeless home dec pieces: pillows, bedspreads, table runners, slipcovers, etc. I must also add that the chapter in color is wonderful with discussions and examples of rooms done in various color schemes. And, for an added plus, if you're looking for some great ideas that translate into wonderful retro and modern ideas, a book published in the early 70s just might be the ticket!

Would I buy this book for myself?

Probably not, but as I "inherited" it, I'm glad it's in my collection.

Would I buy this book for a beginner?

An old book is a great, and usually cheap, reference for a beginner. Somethings, like how to measure your windows, never change, making a book from a different decade, just as applicable.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Book Review: Little Retro Aprons for Kids

Little Retro Aprons for Kids by Cindy Taylor Oates published in 2007 by Taylor Made Designs A link on Amazon
Contents: General Instructions 7 Children's Aprons 1 Doll Apron Master Pattern Sheet I liked:
  • The whole book--particularly aprons A-3 and B.
  • The butcher aprons (Patterns A-1, A-2, and A-3) have adjustable straps that pull through loops to tie in the back, rather than a tacked neck strap and separate ties.
  • The General Instructions are very thorough and designed for even the most beginner sewers (for example, the first set of instructions is "Tracing Your Pattern").

Dislikes:

None really. Conclusion: This is the cutest book of patterns! I love creating aprons for gifts and these are so simple! The doll apron is designed for an 18 inch doll (and perfect for Kit K. who came to live with us this Christmas). The best part of these aprons--the flexibility! You can have fun with fabrics, embroider, and change out elements. This book would be a great addition to your library if you have little people to sew for. The purple and yellow apron pictured above was made for a 4-year-old friend. I used pattern A-3, but I only used 1 ruffle. The size 4 was so small that the 3 ruffles originally in the pattern were too much.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Button Hole Trim

Here is a close-up of the button hole trim around the buttons on my pink jacket: Here's how I did it:
  1. Cut 7 inches of ribbon for a 2-inch trim.
  2. Fold over 2 1/4 inches.
  3. Mark the 45 degree line.
  4. I sew this on freezer paper because my ribbon often gets bunched under my presser foot. It will also help if you will lower your presser foot first--then your needle!
  5. Trim the corner.
  6. Press it open.
  7. Fold over 3/4 inches.
  8. Mark the 45 degree line and stitch again.
  9. Fold the remaining length back onto the length of top. Mark the 45 degree line and stitch again.
  10. Mark the intersection of the miters.
  11. Fold the top onto the bottom, matching the intersection.
  12. Mark 45 degree line.
  13. Stitch.
  14. Trim the excess.
  15. Press it open.
  16. Fray check your edges and stabilize if you wish. If you stabilize, you will have to rip the stabilizer between the ribbons.
  17. Secure it to over your button holes, matching openings.